El Golfo new temporary home of the Southern Right Whale. We reached the end of the course of our dear friends giants. They stay and we continue to travel south in search of new adventures, landscapes and more contact with the natural environment which we are already part for being so many days in 'the. We could spend our lives so those who enjoy being outdoors, or not? As a native hunters going from one side to another in search of guanacos, but hey, let delusions aside for a while.
(gypsy wig and repairing kayaks that have suffered enough with the entrained)
I'll tell you in short and without accents (because of the keyboard) that was the end of the Golfo San Matias and Peninsula Valdes and we dropped a few days ago.
(the levees hide a lot of life, the white you see below is the enemy of the boats, the bay dogtooth hull kayaks)
you remember we were in the caves, well, it was almost the last of the beaches we saw it from golden beaches, before and after .... all rock! a bay with lots of stone and plenty of underwater in their shoals.
Again we have had low water and having to wait for the arrival of water until 11 pm sitting in the kayaks. The strategy? the same as ever, the Gypsy to cook and assemble base and wig and I towed the boat yard by yard for long hours stones. And after that we had more luck and we found holes with half-tide to make portages or carries shorter.
If there is something nice about all this, is to see the amount of life left in the shoals at low tide. We found echinoderms (sea urchins, starfish), octopus, clams, mussels and a lot more that went Porifera and filtering out there in the pools. For the curious and for those of you like bugs, nude paradise. Thousand pictures I've taken half an hour, incredible.
browsing rocks So we get close to the border between provinces in Puerto Lobos, Chubut and Rio Black. From here and you see the walls of Barranco Blanco and begins the Valdes Peninsula, a provincial reserve, total ban for everyone, or almost everyone because it seems that there are permits to pass through some parts. In fact in San Jose and Nuevo Gulfs there business. After annotated with photos will be appearing more anecdotes about the Gulf of San Matias, for now we leave here and move on.
First of all I thank the Friends of Puerto Lobos shellfish endurance for us the day we arrived in the rain and wind. And above all, thanks for the portage with the tractor that came to us barbarous and water to address the cross-Valdes! the day you go to Chubut we did a good raging north wind that took us under full sail to White Canyon.
output to the beach .... orillazooooo! also furious with a pebble beach with steep, tip landed on the rocks and jump off the kayak because it is the following wave.
beginning to surf the Valdes Peninsula, a breathtaking view from the sea, many fossils, many interesting geological formations and great presence of elephant seals.
In 9 days we circumnavigate the peninsula without interfering with wildlife, without touching a single fossil, taking photos and raising only camp without a trace. We come sailing with our own moral low impact we have adopted leave no trace (no trace, home version) http://www.lnt.org/ If they want to give a little more quality to your enterprise can afford to have the right to use the logo and sell a more environmentally friendly.
In Argentina we are away! but can take many things from this NGO, metanse is rather interesting because the approach we do and their bases. Wig discovered it years ago in an archaeological trip to the northern hemisphere. return to our voyage, following in the peninsula was the entrance to the Golfo San Jose, right on the tip Buenos Aires. There is a fling (currents, waves) well marked and if it blows the kayak moves. Another important issue in the mouth of San Jose which is about 7 km is the tidal current, about 5 knots or 9 to 10 km time and this feels. We went right on slack water (tide still) and then almost getting low and we grabbed the current against us at 120 strokes per minute, almost impossible. While we have not come all the Golfito San Jose, Buenos Aires tip seemed to us a great place. Return for more later.
Over the day we passed the northern tip of Orcas fotocapturadas famous for, with a clear record of their dorsal fins, the tip Cantor, Delgada, Valdes creek and finally the nose back into the New entrance to the Gulf where we stopped blowing wind to 70 mph.
left us froze in place with only 50 and stronger gusts threw us back. With a superhuman effort we managed to get some rocks that serve as refuges for just 100 yards past the entrance beacon. Another step we there, a rough cracked and fell just above the eaves of the tent destroying one of the rods. The Gypsy was saved by little.
The day we passed the northern tip had our first encounter with an Orca. Paddling near the shore at 6.30 am and suddenly we head out vertically about 100 meters. We looked and we said, this is not a southern right ... and suddenly pulls out seconds after the tail and dorsal fin height was over we sat in the kayaks.
Jaja not know what it was that, once we met the three at 10 cm from each other and think ... if you're hungry we eat all three together. The kids told me out picture! out picture! and I kept slipping into the deep of a perfect machine to swim and hunt. No nothing would happen but not every day thing to see a killer whale at 100 meters. Then it dived and went and saw her again no. Excellent experience, I hope we see more pointed Nymphs.
kayakers is important to know that the Peninsula is a World Heritage Reserve, intangible area, etc etc etc. You can not touch anything. The navigation is allowed within three miles the coast and only you can stop at the creek where there is a storm anchor. It is almost impossible for kayakers navigate without touching land. Before sending have to talk to protected areas of the province, asking permission, submit a project and wait. We are still waiting.
It's a long story I will tell later. Once again in the Gulf are other prohibitions, such as rowing alongside whales and pass through a place called the Doradillo.
been a long road to Puerto Madryn, not having the support of the province of Chubut and less of the wardens had to make the pull of 16 days with several kilos of cargo in kayak to be self-sufficient. We arrived well and without using the pump to get water but we had to ration every day, no mates and soups, no two liters per person per day. In the Gulf there are many whales again, suddenly sailing with 10 or 15 whales seen jumping, lifting her tail and playing with the young. We could also see bodies of whales on the coast and as always ... you know, rubbish! Serious waste management plan and it gets dirty Valdes day after day. Could summon the local kayakers along the coast and make a clean anything wrong that would not come, I pledge. In a couple of days we continued our voyage towards Playa Union, now if we start to fall faster latitude and go to the creeks we were told that they are very cute. I still have the anecdotes in Part 2, taking advantage of the cool photos my memory.
A big salute to all. I must not omit to thank Julian and Alejandro de la Estancia San Lorenzo for the good vibes, the marina Puerto Madryn for letting us keep the boats, the Malevo and the mole, two divers who helped with the jeep for hauling boats and kayaker Paul Passera for the info you sent us by mail on the coast of Chubut. Thank you very much!
And so as the story in Madryn also bad things happen and we have stolen a jacket, a lot of money and all the info gps trip that was most valuable. All places to stop at different beaches have been in the hands of the jets. Argentina, a country seriously! Things that happen would say the pampa Larralde. Incredible
not? At sea and on top of a kayak are safer than in the city.
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